Friday, June 01, 2007

Slow border crossing and Lake Baikal

Border crossing - Mongolia to Russia

Despite what the lonely planet warned I couldn't see how the border crossing into Russia could take longer than coming into Mongolia from China... they don't need to change the wheels so surely it can't take that long.... But no, we started at the mongolian border at about 8:30, and finally finished and pulled out of the Russian station at 2.30! Lots of sitting round, a few walks along deserted stations. Yeah, unlike central american boarders where there are money changers, and people selling food etc, both stations were lifeless. Oh well, no more borders from now on. Other thing is I've definitely gone from Asia to Europe in terms of race... without the backpack I can now pass as a local until I open my mouth. (There is some english spoken but not that much.)

Lake Baikal and Irkutsk

I got picked up from Irkutsk station and taken to Lake Baikal, and the town of Listvyanka, which is small but spreads along the lake shore and up valleys for about 4 km. The lake was spectacular, and with such a beautiful clear sunny day the snow capped mountains on the other side where clearly visable. Its huge... I was only looking across a skinny bit if that makes sense. It is the deepest lake in the world (1.6km), has really clear and cold water, and holds 1/5 of the worlds fresh water. HUGE. Phil could have gone for a very chilly dive (they use dry suits I'm told), but I struggled to leave my feet or hands in for more than 30 seconds...so cold it hurts! The lake completely freezes over during winter and they do dogsledding apparently.

Anyway I spent a few days wandering along the shoreline, checking out the museum, the local wooden houses and relaxing. And eating Omul, the local fish which they smoke and dry or cook anyway you like it. Yum, kind of like trout.

I'm in Irkutsk for a day, before hopping on the train for 3 or 4 nights... hope my cabin mates are nice! Irkutsk is also know for its wooden houses with intricate decoration. A number of them are rather dilapidated though with some interesting slants. And today has been Childrens day, so there are lots of kids and families out and about, facepaint, balloons etc.

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