Cappadocia

Cappadocia is the land of "fairy chimneys" - those wierd mushroom, eroded rock formations that feature on nearly all Turkey tourist brochures. And with houses, churches etc all carved into the rocks it can be a bit flintstonish too... We stayed in Goreme, a small town built amongst these formations, and stazed in a hotel decorated extensively with turkish carpets and with a lovely roof top terrace with views of the surrounding town and formations. Of course we visited the open air museum - an old religous complex carved into the rocks by hand (you can see the pick marks)... nunnery, multiple painted churches, and a refractory where food was eaten and wine made. We climbed up on the hill overlooking the museum and valley on the other side where the view was awesome, and this is where we met Mustafa, a 70y old Turkish man who loves to show tourists round and practice english. So we ended up visiting another church and discovering the rock stairs and passageways firsthand that have been cut like honecomb into the rock to link up different levels... dusty but really interesting climbing and exploring. We visited another monastery and hospital complex, then Mustafa took us to his farm plot (grapes and apricots) and small hut and cooked us dinner, chatted, and gave us massages! Wierd!

We decided to visit the underground city of Derinkuyu, an underground complex with 8 levels carved into the rocks as a protective refuge for the villagers. Its really harrd to understand the fear these people must have felt which compelled them to go to this effort to carve out rocks and have supplies to live hidden away underground, with rolling stone doors to seal off access from above. Its all lit with electricity now, so its a pleasure to explore, but living with lamps and candles and no visible facilities for showering or toilets... tipping it wasnt so pleasant then. I guess the rooms / houses carved into the cliff faces in the valleys with no easy acess are similar in that respect... built in a very different time when security was a real concern.

We also went for a few walks along 2 of the nearby valleys. I would have to say that they are some of the most interesting short hiking trails Ive done because of the amazing rock formations from erosion, and various carved rock windows high above in the cliffside (inviting you to explore if you can find a way up and in!), and scenery which kind of unfolds as you walk around bends in the valleys. Our last walk along Rose Valley brought us out into the town of Cavusin, with its old town cut into/ built onto the side of the hill but abandoned after earthquakes. More climbing through ruins and cave houses, but the standout here was the 360 view from the top - breathtaking.

So if you havent gathered by now we really enjoyed our stay in Cappadocia, and think its definitely a highlight of our time in Turkey.